Aeration, also called core cultivation or aerifying, is an important part of any lawn restoration program. It allows grass roots to deeply penetrate the soil, helps fertilizer and organic matter get to roots, allows oxygen to reach the roots, and makes it easier for water to soak into the soil.

Aerate once, in the autumn. Avoid aerating during dry summer months because you may damage an already stressed lawn. Also, avoid periods when weed seeds are prevalent, as that could cause weed infestation.
There are several types of aerating tools. Manual aerators allow you to do small areas a little at a time and to aerate corners and other tight areas that are difficult to reach with large equipment. You supply the power for these tools by pushing the hollow cylinders or corers into the turf much as you would push in a spade. The tool cuts a plug, or core, that is extracted and deposited on the lawn.

Small power aerators work similarly and are available to rent. Some machines use a rotating tillerlike action that pushes the corers into the soil and extracts small plugs. These lawn mower–size machines will fit into a full-size estate car, mini-van, or pickup truck, and they require two people to transport them.

lawn soil aerating. The largest aerators will require a truck and several helpers to transport them but do a better job. With these machines, the corers are vertically plunged into the turf to extract a sizable plug. You may opt to have a pro tackle this job. Avoid aerators that only poke holes in the lawn without removing plugs because they are of little value to your lawn. Aerators penetrate your lawn best when the soil has been moistened by rain or watering; so, unless it rains, water your lawn the day before aerating. When aerating, make several passes in several directions over every square foot of lawn. Next, break up all the plugs extracted by the aerator with the back of a rake or by dragging a metal mesh doormat or section of chain-link fence over the plugs to spread the soil. Then water the lawn thoroughly.

Try to give your lawn the water it needs and no more. This moderate approach not only conserves an important resource, but it also saves money and helps prevent grass diseases caused by too much water. How much water your lawn needs depends on the health of your lawn and soil, the amount of rainfall your lawn gets, and the climate. You may need as few as two waterings a year or as many as two a week.

The best approach to watering grass (and most other plants) is to follow nature's pattern of rainy periods followed by brief dry spells. Apply enough water all at once to penetrate to the roots, let the soil almost dry out, and then apply water again. Grass signals that it needs water by losing its spring: When you walk across the lawn and see your footprints, your lawn probably needs to be watered.

To determine how much water your lawn needs, you have to consider several factors: the depth of your grass roots, your soil type and its 'penetrability,' your irrigation method, and, of course, the weather. First, check to see how deep the roots of your grass grow. Add an inch to the average root depth to arrive at a target watering depth. It makes no sense to waste water by watering to a level substantially deeper than the root zone of your lawn.

Root depth depends on how much time you have taken to improve your soil and on the type of grass you are growing. Some grasses, such as tall fescues, have roots that reach 1 foot deep. Others grow to only half that in even the best conditions. As your grass develops deeper roots, adjust your watering-depth target so that you continue to encourage roots to go deeper.

Next, determine how much water is needed to moisten soil to the root zone. A good rule of thumb for most grasses is 1 to 2 inches per week. If you have porous soil that drains quickly, apply 1 inch of water twice a week. Conversely, if your soil holds water well, a good guess would be 1 1/2 to 2 inches once a week.

To determine how long you should run your sprinkler to deliver the desired amount of water, wait for a four-to-five-day dry spell. Then set out some empty cans in various locations on the lawn. Run your sprinkler or in-ground sprinkler system until the cans contain 1 inch of water. Then wait 24 hours to allow the water to penetrate the soil (12 hours if your soil is porous and therefore drains faster) and check the depth of the moisture penetration.

If 1 inch of water moistens soil to a depth well beyond the root depth, try the procedure again after your soil has dried and simply turn off the sprinkler sooner. Conversely, if the root depth is not reached, deliver more water by running the sprinkler lomger. Keep accurate records of how long you need to run your sprinkler or sprinkler system to deliver the required amount of water for your lawn and then base future waterings on what you have learned from your observations.

If it rains during the week, decrease your watering by the amount of rain that fell. If it's hot and sunny or windy, you may need to increase the watering amount and frequency.